The crepe-like surface of Ojiya chijimi and the familiar sight of cloth spread on snow belong to different manufacturing questions. The Ojiya textile cooperative explains the relationship between yarn and texture separately from the later whitening stage.
Technique and structure
The cooperative connects strongly twisted weft with the finishing that produces shibo, the cloth’s uneven texture. Its process account describes yumomi as hand-working the woven chijimi in lukewarm water, removing starch while bringing out that texture. Yukizarashi follows finishing for products to be made whiter: cloth is spread on snow in fine weather. Thus the yarn, the texture-forming treatment and the bleaching operation make different contributions. Snow bleaching should not be used as a substitute explanation for how the crepe texture is formed.
Keep the manufacturing account at the right scope
The cooperative’s traditional-process account identifies ramie as the raw fibre and describes hand-splitting and joining its prepared fibres. A regional name alone still does not document every production detail of an individual bolt. Ask which material and manufacturing specifications accompany the actual cloth.
This guide concerns the relationship between twist and finishing. Our Yuki tsumugi guide covers a different question, the relationship between untwisted silk and loom tension.
For international readers
Check the particular textile’s label and care directions. A manufacturing description of warm-water work and snow bleaching is not a home washing or stain-removal instruction.
Global shipping and buying
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日本語
小千谷縮：シボを出す仕上げと雪ざらしを区別する
小千谷織物同業協同組合は、緯糸の強い撚りと製織後の仕上げを小千谷縮のシボに結び付けています。湯もみは糊を落としてシボを作る工程、雪ざらしは仕上げた布をさらに白くする工程として説明されており、同じ仕事ではありません。
Sources
Ojiya textile cooperative — official reference
Ojiya textile cooperative — official reference