A general silk label does not explain how the two yarn systems were prepared. Yamanashi’s Oishi tsumugi reference assigns different cocoons to warp and weft, then shows that both paths include yarn combining and twisting.
Technique and structure
The prefecture describes the warp as hand-reeled from hon-mayu, a normal cocoon made by one silkworm, and the weft from tama-mayu, a cocoon made by two silkworms. In each preparation path, combining brings several threads together to obtain the required thickness, and twisting follows as its own step. At weaving, a thrown shuttle carries weft through the mounted warp and a reed beats it into place. Cocoon selection, yarn assembly and the loom operation are separate parts of this account, rather than interchangeable meanings of the word tsumugi.
Keep the yarn description specific
The listed production area is Fujikawaguchiko. This is a description of the named local process, not a general rule for every cloth sold with tsumugi in its name.
A useful enquiry can ask which yarn is used in each direction before moving to colour, texture or garment construction. The reference does not supply the fibre percentages or finishing details of an unknown retail item.
For international readers
Check the actual cloth’s composition, maker information and care instructions. The local process does not justify importing the yarn specification of another tsumugi tradition.
Global shipping and buying
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日本語
大石紬：経糸と緯糸で異なる繭を使う
山梨県の大石紬資料では、本繭から経糸を、二匹の蚕が作る玉繭から緯糸を座繰り手引きすると説明しています。両方の工程に、必要な太さに合わせた合糸と撚糸があります。繭の選択、糸の構成、投げ杼と筬による製織を分け、他産地の紬の仕様を当てはめない解説です。