To understand a woven pattern, ask which threads produce it. The Nishijin Textile Industry Association describes tsuzure as a variation of plain weave in which the weft covers the warp and forms the visible design.
Technique and structure
The association explains that patterned areas are woven section by section, rather than having every coloured weft cross the full cloth width. The densely packed weft wraps around the warp, concealing it at the surface. Boundaries between differently coloured sections can have gaps. These are consequences of the stated thread arrangement, rather than evidence that the design was printed onto finished cloth.
Keep the pattern-making stages distinct
This guide concerns tsuzure construction. Our earlier Kurume kasuri explanation concerns resist-dyed yarn and its alignment. A shared word such as “pattern” does not make those production stages interchangeable.
For international readers
For an individual obi or furnishing textile, confirm weave, fibre and care separately. A technique name alone does not establish a particular silk percentage or washing method.
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日本語
綴織：経糸が表面に見えない理由
西陣織工業組合は、綴織を緯糸で文様を織り出し、経糸を包むように覆う組織と説明します。文様部分は色ごとに織り進め、色糸の境目に隙間が生じることがあります。糸を先に防染する絣や、完成した布への印刷とは工程が異なります。