A kasuri pattern is planned before cloth leaves the loom. The Kurume Kasuri Cooperative’s process account follows pattern-bearing yarn through resist work and later alignment. That construction question is separate from whether a particular bolt is handwoven or machine-woven.
Technique and structure
The cooperative describes tying the parts of warp and weft yarn that will form the pattern so they resist dyeing. Later, pattern-bearing yarn and plain yarn are arranged according to calculated thread counts; during handweaving, the pattern is aligned as the cloth is woven. The design therefore depends on both colour placement on yarn and alignment at the loom, not simply an image applied to finished cloth. The account distinguishes hand tying, machine tying and a woven-resist method, so one process name should not be used to infer every workshop’s full production route.
A craft name and a certification are different claims
The cooperative introduces both handwoven and machine-woven Kurume kasuri. Separately, it sets out conditions for the Important Intangible Cultural Property label: hand-tied pattern yarn, natural indigo dyeing and handweaving on a throw-shuttle loom, followed by inspection. The regional name alone does not establish that certification.
For international readers
Ask which yarn preparation, dyeing and weaving methods belong to the actual cloth. A photograph or the word kasuri does not by itself establish handweaving, natural-indigo use, a certification label or finished-garment sizing.
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日本語
久留米絣の柄：糸の防染と織るときの柄合わせ
久留米絣協同組合の製法説明では、経糸と緯糸の柄になる部分を括って防染し、染色後に組み合わせて柄を合わせながら織ります。糸の段階で設計した色分けと、織るときの位置合わせが結び付いた仕組みです。同組合は手織りと機械織りの双方を紹介し、重要無形文化財の証紙に関する手括り・天然藍・投杼の手織りなどの条件を別に説明しています。すべての久留米絣を手織りと一括しません。